Purchasing an older vehicle, such as the Toyota Starlet, makes good financial sense. You’re able to avoid the steep depreciation rates that occur with brand new vehicles. This essentially gives you the advantage of getting a Starlet for less money than when it was new. If the Starlet was properly maintained, you also have a good chance of steering clear of problems that would have developed as if when the car was new.

The amount you pay for an older car depends on various factors. One important element is where you buy the vehicle. You’re likely to get a better deal if you buy it from a private party, as opposed to a dealer. On the other hand, a reputable dealer will normally have some kind of limited warranty, so you can drive away knowing that if the car breaks down right away, you’ll be covered. Another factor that may affect price on a used car is whether it’s “certified” by the manufacturer. A non modified car may worth more in the long run.

Another dynamic that will play into the purchase price is the resale value. A used vehicle with a high resale value will obviously cost you more. It is expected that the Starlet will have a excellent resale value. This assumes that the Toyota starlet is in good condition and has a reasonable number of miles.

Select the best oldschool model before you buy. Too many like the Celica, Sprinters, Truenos, Boxies may have the high value as they go older. The best old school cars comes from best sellers and good buyers, not because you bought them expensive they are better .

The Toyota Starlet maybe the best choice for some, would you agree?

`A’ is for “amperes”, which is a measurement of current equal to one coulomb of charge per second. You usually speak of positive  current  - current which flows from the more positive potential to the more negative potential, with respect to some reference point (usually ground, which is designated as zero potential). The electrons in a circuit flow in the opposite direction as the current itself.

Ampere is commonly abbreviated as “amp”, not to be confused with amplifiers, of course, which are also commonly abbreviated “amp”. In computation, the abbreviation for amps is commonly “I”.

`V’ is for “volts”, which is a measurement of electric potential. Voltages don’t “go” or “move”, they simply exist as a measurement (like
saying that there is one mile between you and some other point).

`DC’ is for “direct current”, which is a type of circuit. In a DC circuit, all of the current always flows in one direction, and so it is
important to understand which points are at a high potential and which points are at a low potential. For example, cars are typically 12VDC (twelve volts direct current) systems, and it is important to keep track of which wires in a circuit are attached to the +12V (positive twelve volts) lead of the battery, and which wires are attached to the ground (or “negative”) lead of the battery. In reality, car batteries tend to have a potential difference of slightly higher than 12V, and the charging system can produce upwards of 14.5V when the engine is running.

`AC’ is for “alternating current”, which is a type of circuit in which the voltage potential fluctuates so that current can flow in either
direction through the circuit. In an AC circuit, it is typically not as important to keep track of which lead is which, which is why you can plug household appliances into an outlet the “wrong way” and still have a functioning device. The speaker portions of an audio system comprise an AC circuit. In certain situations, it is indeed important to understand which lead is “positive” and which lead is “negative” (although these are just reference terms and not technically correct).

See below for examples. The voltage of an AC circuit is usually given as the RMS (root mean square) voltage, which, for sinusoidal waves, is simply the peak voltage divided by the square root of two.

`W’ is for “watts”, a measurement of electrical power. One watt is equal to one volt times one amp, or one joule of energy per second. In a DC circuit, the power is calculated as the voltage times the current (P=V x I). In an AC circuit, the average power is calculated as the RMS voltage times the RMS current (Prms=Vrms x Irms).

`Hz’ is for “hertz”, a measurement of frequency. One hertz is equal to one inverse second (1/s); that is, one cycle per second, where a cycle is the duration between similar portions of a wave (between two peaks, for instance). Frequency can describe both electrical circuits and sound waves, and sometimes both. For example, if an electrical signal in a speaker circuit is going through one thousand cycles per second (1000Hz, or 1kHz), the speaker will resonate at 1kHz, producing a 1kHz sound wave. The standard range of human hearing is “twenty to twenty”, or 20Hz-20kHz, which is three decades (three tenfold changes in frequency) or a little under ten octaves (ten twofold changes in frequency).

`dB’ is for “decibel”, and is a measurement for power ratios. To measure dB, you must always measure with respect to something else.
The formula for determining these ratios is P=10^(dB/10), which can be rewritten as dB=10log(P). For example, to gain 3dB of output compared to your current output, you must change your current power by a factor of 10^(3/10) = 10^0.3 = 2.00 (that is, double your power). The other way around, if you triple your power (say, from 20W to 60W) and want to know the corresponding change in dB, it is dB=10log(60/20)=4.77 (that is, an increase of 4.77dB). If you know your logarithms, you know that a negative number simply inverts your answer, so that 3dB corresponding to double power is the same as -3dB corresponding to half power. There are several other dB formulas; for instance, the voltage measurement is dB=20log(V). For example, a doubling of voltage produces 20log2 = 6.0dB more output, which makes sense since power is proportional to the square of voltage, so a doubling in voltage produces a quadrupling in power.

`SPL’ is for “sound pressure level” and is similar to dB. SPL measurements are also ratios, but are always measured relative to a constant. This constant is 0dB which is defined as the smallest level of sound pressure that the human ear can detect. 0dB is equal to
10^-12 (ten to the negative twelfth power) W/m^2 (watts per square meter). As such, when a speaker is rated to produce 92dB at 1m when given 1W (92dB/Wm), you know that they mean that it is 92dB louder than 10^-12W/m^2. You also know than if you double the power (from 1W to 2W), you add 3dB, so it will produce 95dB at 1m with 2W, 98dB at 1m with 4W, 101dB at 1m with 8W, etc.

An “Ohm” is a measure of resistance and impedance, which tells you how much a device will resist the flow of current in a circuit. For
example, if the same signal at the same voltage is sent into two speakers – one of which is nominally rated at 4 ohms of impedance, the
other at 8 ohms impedance – twice as much current will flow through the 4 ohm speaker as the 8 ohm speaker, which requires twice as much power, since power is proportional to current.

Many people do not realize that `MOSFET’ is an acronym, but it stands for “Metal oxide semiconductor field-effect transistor”. It is another common type of transistor, but of the FET class. This type of transistor operates in a different manner than BJTs. There’s much  debate about which type of transistor is more suitable for car audio amplifiers, but in the end it becomes a matter of personal preference for the designer. It’s important to note that neither design has an inherent benefit in terms of sound quality. However, properly constructed MOSFET output stages are sometimes more durable and immune to damage produced by device failure or poor output protection circuitry, whereas BJT output stages can sometimes be slightly more efficient and cheaper. But both of these statements depend even moreso on the circuit design and the transistor used.

`RMS’ is the abbreviation for “root mean-square”. It is usually associated with power measurements, and refers to a calculation that
consists of the following procedure: 1) square the waveform; 2) take the mean of the result; 3) take the square root of this number. If the waveform is a sine wave, the RMS value is .707 times the peak value. If the waveform is a square wave, the RMS value is equal to the peak value. Importantly, the RMS voltage of a signal multiplied by the RMS current of a signal will yield the signal’s average power. Sometimes, average power is erroneously referred to by manufacturers and hobbyists alike as “RMS power”. “RMS power” would require calculating the root mean-square value of a power waveform, which ends up yielding a different result than average power, but it’s become almost an industry standard.

`DCR’ is the “DC resistance” of a speaker driver (it is sometimes referred to as `RE’). This number is typically lower than the nominal
impedance provided by the manufacturer. It specifies the resistive component of the speaker’s impedance characteristic at a given
temperature. Sometimes it’s useful to estimate a speaker’s impedance by measuring its DCR value with a simple ohmmeter. Typical DCR values for 4 ohm speakers are on the order of 3.2 to 3.5 ohms, and for 8 ohm speakers, usually over 5.5 ohms.

`Q’ is typically known as “quality factor”, and tends to refer to the rolloff behavior of a filter or group of filters. Values of Q are
intimately related to the breadth of bandpass rolloff (eg. in equalizers), degree of overlap between filters, filter alignment, or loudspeaker/enclosure interaction. In general, the higher the Q, the narrower the passband, greater the overlap, or steeper the slope.

I hope this helps till next edition of boom your rides!

As you should know, the bigger the power wire in your sound, video or lighting system, the better it will perform and you should experience less dimming and/or voltage drops.

1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)

2) Battery Negative to Chassis

3) Chassis to Engine Block

Replacing/adding larger wire to these three critical spots can reduce or rid your electrical system of dimming and voltage drops.  Overall, giving your charging system a larger surface area to travel over, will stabilize power and relieve strain on the alternator and battery.

If you have little cash to spend on a High Output (HO) alternator at the moment  and the thought of even buying a DRY CELL battery is daunting to you, this is a cheap and quick solution for your voltage issues.

Each wire serves its own special purpose, so you need to upgrade/replace all three for maximum potential of this mod.  The Alternator Positive to Battery Positive wire is pretty small on a stock electrical system, so quite obviously upgrading that particular wire will increase power flow from the alternator to the battery.  In DC power systems, power flows negative to positive.  So upgrading the main grounds is just as important as the main power wire is.  And lastly, since the alternator is grounded to the engine block, you need a way to transfer that energy back into the system.

DIY Steps

1)  Start out by disconnecting your Battery Negative.  This will interrupt power through the whole system allowing you to safely work on the vehicle without danger to you or the cars more fragile electronic devices.

2) Sand down the potential grounding point for the new Chassis to Battery Negative point.  This should be shiny metal when you’re done.  You want as clean of a connection as possible.  This connection must be tight and secure when you’re done.

3)  Screw the new ground wire in place but DO NOT reconnect it to the Battery Negative yet.  Lay it down on a piece of cloth or paper and wait to connect it till after you finish the other elements of the project.

4)  It’s time to add onto the existing Alternator Positive wire.  Again, make sure that the wire is hooked snug on the terminal and not exposed to the elements.

5)  Take the other end of the Alternator Positive wire and if you so choose, run it through the fuse holder. If you’ve decided to not get a fuse holder, then run it straight to the battery positive.

6)  Attach the wire along the way to something that won’t get too hot and that won’t vibrate too terribly. Go ahead and connect the wire to the positive battery terminal.

7)  The last step is the Chassis to Engine Block wire. Remember to sand both points well, just like the when you did the Battery Negative to Chassis. All you need to do for this step is to find a non-essential bolt on the engine block to attach the wire to. Non-essentials are those that don’t hold a liquid in. For example… using the Oil Drain plug as an attachment point probably isn’t the smartest place.

Take the other end leading off of the engine block and sand a smooth place on the chassis. If you want to do more than one lead off of the block that would be fine as well. The more the merrier.

9)  You’re just about done. Re-check all of the new and old connections you just fiddled with to ensure stability, safe connection and good contact. After you’ve made sure everything is safe, you may re-attach the Battery Negative wire to the negative terminal on the battery.

Congratulations!  You’ve just completed the cheapest and easiest upgrade to your electrical system.

Its Christmas season once again, time for giving and sharing.  It’s the time when we see our loved ones, giving and exchanging gifts and attending the simbang gabi at 4:00 in the morning.

I can still remember when I was in college and driving on the streets at night going home from school.  The weather was cold and the road was so bright.  All sorts of Christmas lights and lanterns displayed along the sidewalks and posts.  Entering the subdivision was even more exciting seeing those houses with their own versions of decorations.  Santa and the snowman was all around the streets. People singing with enchantment as they carol from house to house. Every children are on the street with their musical instruments . Its the happiest moment óf the year nothing to compare.

But where have the lights gone?

Now,  as I drive along the main streets I can still see some lanterns but only a few compared to those times.  Lights were there but not all houses have them.  I can see children doing the carol but most were only beggars.  I can hear christmas songs from the car radio but I cannot feel it’s here.

Is the spirit of Christmas still here?

I know that economic problem and financial situation in our country contributes much in this matter.  Electric bills at the peak prices, foods and basic commodities are very expensive.   Thus people neglect to decorate or they tend to save the money for other purposes.  This may be a fact but this was the real thing happening today.

But, as long as we have our loved ones, our friends and our sharing love, who needs these lights and lanterns anyway?

Have a Merry Christmas everyone!

I can still remember my first old school car, a 1977 Mitsubishi Galant Sigma.  I bought this car from Makati where I saw an add at a local newspaper, Bulletin Today.  Sulit and Buy & Sell was not yet famous at that time.   I have to buy the Sunday edition of this newspaper for cars on sale.

I haven’t had any idea about old school restorations or any old schooler clubs yet .  All I know is I want to have this car so I can get to places I want.  I always wanted the box type but my size can get to fit in the car, until the first time I saw the Sigma, a spacy kinda elegant car of his time..  I bought the car and drove it home.

I had that Galant for a very cheap price of a junkie, mind you I have no idea yet on how to repair and get the parts needed thus the car needs most of the fixtures and as I listed them one by one, it was a dilemma.  I don’t know where to start things up.  The flooring and the body had to be fixed as rust had already begun to corrode the car.  Some parts missing such as mirrors and wipers had to be replaced.  Paint had already faded, so a painter is needed to do the job.  Tires worn out already asking for new sets.  Engine is good but I have to get a mechanic to tune it up.  Its like I bought myself a problem car.

Websites and auto clubs were not as usual in those days so I have had a hard time finding those parts I need.  Thus I have get some help from a reliable mechanic and repair shop.  Mind you, I have spent almost triple the amount of the car just to fix it and get it on the road.  Huh, I had too much stress, money and time spent to restore this old shool car. I  wasn’t ready for this but I have to,  I had it already.

I can still remember my friends and folks telling me tips and stories on having cars.  Yes, they did a lot of help or I have to make the decisions myself.  Some of which I clearly still remember.  If I have to buy an old school car, place a dark tint so that no body can see me.  And my aunt advised me to bring a gallon of water everytime I go to school, thats to take care of the engine temperature.  Bring with me a pager since mobile phones are not yet so available during those time.   I have to learn how to replace flat tires.  Bring with me some pillows so if the car broke down at least I can get a good night sleep.  My mom used to place some sampaguita on my rear view mirror because the smell of gasoline really tickles my brain off.  Funny for some but these things were really happening eventually.

Those days I was young and the  lessons served me well.  I had bought several old school cars and I perfectly knew what to do.  Websites and clubs such as OSP is there to be a guide in whatever problem I will encounter.  Owning an Old schooler is much easier during these days than in the past.

If you are buying an old school car , have patience and have a lot of time.  You are buying yourself a good car that needs a good owner.  You have to restore it and make the best of it.  The experience I had with this oldie can never be replaced with the experience from buying a brand new one.  Seeing your car looking nice and making it road worthy would be so worthwhile.

So who would says old schooler dilemma is a bad dream after all?

Diecasts are small replicas of automobiles like cars, trucks, buses and even planes. You can find oldschoolers, 4x4s, hot rods, classics, etc and each has it’s own classifications.

The process of die casting has been a famous art in the 1850’s, driven by the start of the print industry. Die casting involves forcing molten metal under pressure into a machined mold. This process is excellent for producing model cars as it is ideal for making large quantities of finely detailed parts.

During my childhood, diecasts were just plain old toys for me. I can still remember going to the toy store with my mom and dad, where I have to pick a new Matchbox model each and everytime we go there. Diecasts were not termed for these toys then, so I have to call them matchbox.

I had some old good BMWs and some sedans like the fords and capri which were so numerous at that time. I have to buy a couple of trucks and some race cars too. I have had no or little idea that these diecasts would be a good collection after all. At that time all I wanted to do is simply just play with them and no more than that.

I had some favorite model cars at that time and with mostly playing with them around some paints chipped off while others have gone into pieces. It’s quite to far different nowadays where diecasts are often seen on the shelves and still in their original boxes and are really preserved. Diecasts enthusiast found their way to collect them one by one making them their prized possession. Though models and figures are not that rare compared to the past . You can mostly buy all the models you prefer to collect.

The birth of diecasts started early 1930’s. These models were marketed as railway accessories for Hornby train sets and this explains why some of the smaller scales of model car are exactly the same scales as model railways. For example 1:43 scale which is a scale that is popular with model car enthusiasts is the same scale as O’Gauge railways. This range of model car model car were originally named Meccano Dinky Toys and now 1:43 scale is often referred to as Dinky Toys.

These early models were not precise replicas of a particular car and wasn’t until 1935 did models starting to be based on a particular car model. The first models were of an Armstrong Siddely, a Bentley and a Salmon sports car. As time progressed so did the detail and rubber tires, tinplate radiators and driver figures helped to create a better model.Unfortunately there are very few of the early models remains in one piece. Most of them were corroded and some were lost by time.

Today not only matchbox produces these diecasts we can see other brands mostly available at the toy’s stores. With more than 50 popular brands including Altaya, Bandai, Brooklin, CMC, Dragon Wings, Exoto, Guisval, Ixo, Jada, Johnny Ligntning, Kyosho, Lledo, Minichamps, Norev, Plasticos Argentinos, Racing Champions, RCCA, Revell, Tekno, Tomica, UT Models, Vitesse, and the popular Hot Wheels introduced by Mattel, among others.

Rarely a diecast collector completes a collection because new models of cars are always available, and collecting never stops. You can always expand or start an entirely new collection in a subtopic, such as cars, then sport cars, vans, etc. From Hot Wheels to Matchbox and from Bandai to Tomica, including all the other brands, diecasts models include popular automobile marques. Packard, MG, Morris, Hillman, Austin, Alfa Romeo, Bentley, Citroen, Opel, Triumph, Talbot, Gwynne, Vauxhall, Reliant, Singer, Bristol, Wolseley, Innocenti, Healey, Siddeley, BSA, Darracq, Crossley, Jowett, Frazer Nash, Northern, Renault, Ford, Chrysler, and the classics Jaguar, Mercedes Benz and Rolls Royce, just to name a few.

My affection for these small toys encouraged me more to love these precious automobiles.

Car restoration is an art of preserving back an old car into the state of how it looks like when was bought new. Restoration requires skill, precision and personal discipline. It may take a simple car a year or so do be developed.  The patience and know how of a restorer can bring a rusty old car into life again.

Imagine a junky old automobile in the yard would transform into a show type car.  In the oldies, cars were really prone to rust , thus rust control was not their priority at that time but sales and competitiveness.  Thus we can see a lot of oldschool cars look alike.  A Celica Gt is a replica of the pony ford mustang, Toyota SRs and Mitsubishi 1st generation lancers has obvious similarities. That was the time when the car is not a necessity but a business.

American cars made wider and bigger cars while the Japanese settled into the compact and coupe editions.  It was in the mid-eighties when Japans car industry almost had it’s glory.  From the luxury editions like the Toyota crown, Mitsubishi Galants, to the sporty Lancers, SRs , Starlets and colts was selling like cakes.  But all alike they missed the process of how to make them resistant to rust and corrosion. Parts tear all about anywhere during time,colors fading and fabrics are cracking. Too bad we have to really keep them somewhere in the garage to preserve.

Restoration also requires you to look for hard to find parts . If you have the componenst and materials ready, it will be easy to restore a project car.  It is hard to find classic car parts nowadays specially when the car factory has already stopped producing it’s parts.  We should find ways how to make them from fiberglass to metal fabrication. Its good many car parts of the classic era has been standardized so you can place parts of other brands in your collection. A restorer often goes to junk shops and scraps hoping to find parts needed.  Its really to stressful specially a head ache when you want a part and you cannot find anywhere.  Sometimes an analgesic or pain reliever would be helpful.

A do it yourself book may also be a good reference than looking for a copy of your classic car repair manual.  If you can find one maybe its worn out or the price will make your blood pressure go up.  If the repair manual is really that important and you cant fix the car without it, we have no choice, the least is to get one from the swapmeet or oldscholoer selling thread.   But wait, thanks there is a web already and we can find some help also using by the internet.

Who says restoration is an easy job or hobby?  It’s quite an experience when you finished a car.  Mostly you have spent much money, had more dirt in your hand gone to places you haven’t gone before and met a lot of people to ask for all around.

So to all oldschoolers out there restoring their project car, its like going to school having some experiments and examinations passing them is worth restoring a good car back to life.

1.   Ang bagong oto maluluma, pero ang luma, hindi na.

2.   Ang lumang oto pag ayaw mo na,  tumataas ang presyo habang tumatagal, ang bago bumababa habang tumatagal.

3.  Ang pyesa ng luma madali hanapin, minsan sa junkshop ok na, ang sa bago mahal na mahirap pa hanapin.

4.  Ang luma pag nagka trouble madaling ayusin, pag bago sa casa na agad.

5.  Ang luma pag nagasgasan ok lang, pag bago ginasgasan demandahan na.

6.  Ang luma bihirang nakawin, pag bago di mo maiwan–iwan.

7.  Ang luma pwedeng paglaruan, pag sa bago hindi na mawa-waranty ng inyong insurance.

8.   Sa luma pag nasira mura lang ang singil pero pag sa bago, tatagain ka dyan.

9.   Pag luma oto at gusto mo na mag palit madali lang bumili, sa bago ipon ipon lang tayo, matatagalan pa bro.

10. Pag luma pwede mo irestore, pag bago, hmmm wala ata nag rerestore ng bago.

11. Pag luma kinarera mo ang modelo sikat ka, pag bago kinarera ng luma …dyahe yun tol.

12. At angpinaka-importante pag me luma kang oto pwede na sumali sa OSP pag bago antay antay kamuna dyan iho.

Boom up your rides 2 is all about how to install an audio system in your car.

Things you should consider before installing several devices in your system:   ae car is a powered by 12volt current with a (+) positive and (-)  negative body ground.  Do not mess up your wires, specially open wires, cut them at the tip if not used with a high quality tape to cover.

Your alternator is the main supplier of power, and your battery stores it.   A voltage meter should  always show 12volts to 13.8 or higher, lower than this voltage like 11 volts may affect your system specially your amplifiers and head units.  Additional capacitors, an extra battery and dry cells can also be a big help to restore more amount of power you will need.

Eventually, louder  music or booming with bass  use more energy and you need to restore the power instantly by replenishing  your power to 12 volts up is at first hand one of the main requirement in setting your audio system.

What do we need for a simple set up?

Not to expensive yet not to cheap equipments, of course we do not want our installation to last only a week or so. Yet our budget is our concern , a friend with an audio experience should be of great help.

The primary to place is a a head unit or stereo.   This will be our main source of signal.   A good type of head unit  (branded) will probably produce much clear quality sound.   Its your choice if you prefer to have a CD or DVD with USBs and SD slots.   Thus if you want to add monitors in the future for video use,   see to it that at the back of your unit there is an Aux Out terminal.

The  next  thing we need are the speakers.  A simple set up requires to hear vocals from the front and bass from the rear.  Thats why we mostly see installs of subwoofers always at the back not on the front.  We  need separates, or coax and subfoower.  Separates consist of 2 midbass, 2 tweeters and an active crossover. While a coax is 2 way midrange and tweeter no active crossovers.  You can buy them in sets and sizes depends on the brand you prefer- comes in 5 and 6 inches.  The  subwoofers also comes in several sizes and watts.  For old school cars I prefer sound quality with just the moderate bass.  A single 10 or 12 incher would do with a 300 to 600 watts . There are also single coil and dual coils available.  I prefer to use the dual coil , they are mostly good subwoofers and at good pressure levels .

Next are are the wirings, you can buy these also by set.  It is termed as ”Wiring Kit” consists of the power  wire speaker wire remote wires etc.  This also comes with a fuse holder and grounding wire.

Next, you need a Subwoofer box, which also comes on several designs and sizes depending on your subwoofer.  The measurement are mostly indicated on the leaflets inserts on the box of the subwoofers you will buy.  Try to follow the design and it will make good bass for you.  If you prefer DIY you need to buy an ( Medium Density Fiber ) MDF ¾ or 1-inch thick for your box.

Lastly you need a four channel  amplifier or if you want a mono and a 4 channel, you can also see various brands at the local stores mainly at web or installer shops nationwide.

First step is connecting the power cable from the front battery to your rear amplifier.  Remember to connect the fuse box near the battery.   Connect it to the positive terminal without the fuse first.  If your battery is in the left side run the power cable on the left side of your car.  Connect it to the positive terminal of your amp and place a ground wire on the negative ground or body chassis.  Try to run the wire through the the matting of your car going towards your rear amplifier.  Connect the RCA wire from the  aux out of the head unit to the aux in terminal of the amplifier.  This will be run in the opposite side, thus power line and signal line will not touch each other along the way to prevent static noise .

Then if you can see a control wire on the head unit connect it also going to the control  of the amplifier. Your separates can be placed at the front door panels with the tweeters and active crossover directions for installation is indicated at their boxes.  Connect them to the front out channel of your amplifier.  This will be your high pass, vocals and mid range will be coming out from here.  Place your subwoofer in the sub box and place it in the rear area of your car.  Connect it also to the rear channel out of your amplifier, this will be your low pass.  All bass sounds will be coming out from here.

Please also take note that these speakers have a positive and negative terminals, they must be connected with the same terminals indicated in your amplifier.  If everything is connected try to double check the positive wires.  They shouldn’t touch any negative grounds or body of your vehicle or short circuit may occur.  Place the fuse on the fuse box near the battery  positive terminal.  Push on your head unit and see your amplifier turned on the same time.  Push your volume up slightly and you must hear the music more loudly and better.  If you need some adjustments see the leaflet inserts of your amplifier . You can adjust the gain , db,  high, and low pass.

Happy listening  and have fun!  I hope this will be a great addition to our old school ride…lets boom up those cars.

The Celica is one of the famous cars Toyota has ever built since it was first it was introduced in the late 70s.   The design and structure is that of a sports car, having 2 doors and some stylish liftback series.   The design was inspired from the Ford Mustangs which was the trend car during those years.  Toyota wants to have its own sports coupe but much in a smaller scale than the Fords.

The compact  sporty and powerful engine of the Celica outclassed its competitors during that era.  Since it was developed the  Celica has been driven out by the Toyota R-series four cylinder engines.  Until in the late 80’s when the car’s drive layout was changed from rear wheel drive to front wheel drive.

As to the present there have been seven generations of the Celica.  It was also produced in a number of designs and structures, one of which was the Celica Supra and some like the Liftbacks, Coupe and Notchback.

The first Celica liftback was termed by many as  ”Japanese Mustang”  thus the looks and design greatly compliments that from the Ford pony car and its virtue to be a muscle car for that time was present.

The first generation Celica came in two variants, the first came with trapezoid-like shape front corner light mainly models TA22, RA20, and RA21.  The second variant has square front corner light which was used to be known as TA23.  In competition with the Datsun and Mazda , the Celica was introduced to the US in 1971.   The first model introduced was the ST then followed by the GT and LT models in late 1974.   The GT was the top of the line with 5 speed tranny and the LT was introduced to be the econo type car.

Since then the design between the Celicas and other Toyota variants was very obvious until now.  The Celica still carries with it the distinctive quality of being a luxury car from the past .   From its framework design to the ride,  to the pleasure , comfort and power.

Who could resist having a Toyota Celica to own during those days?